July 7, 2007
“The City Nestled Between the Mountains and Realityâ€
by Judi and Paul Gallagher
As one perceives the heavenly snow capped mountains to be a calling, Boulder, Colorado seems to be bellowing an opera of beauty: richness of the mountains, inspirations of the artisans, and, flavors of superb culinary talents. Boulder, nestled in the foothills of the great Rocky Mountains, is a destination perhaps like no other, where nature and the arts melt into baskets of mountain flowers, as hiking trails lead to fabulous local food flair and the community seems to embrace an unsurpassed quality of life.
Located just 35 miles Northwest of Denver, Boulder is the quintessential hip urban mountain community: rich in commerce, culture and recreation. There is almost a sense of over stimulation in a kind and gentle spirit. Boulder offers incredible hiking paths for  both the novice and experienced, regular artistic festivals, and, an abundance of natural beauty. One can stroll down Pearl Street Mall, sipping a cappuccino and nibbling on a warm croissant after hours of specialized shopping on Pearl Street. The tree & flowered lined streets seem to call one to simply enjoy the beauty at hand.
Our first experience with Boulder came by way of the Colorado Shakespeare Festival. One of the top three Shakespeare Festivals in the country, Boulder welcomes the 50th year of this mid summer night’s dream to its pristine property. From late June thru mid August, U of Colorado’s gardens boast the planted flower beds like those that inspired William Shakespeare over 400 years previously. Picnicking is encouraged, with a setting under the stars graced by the sleeping mountains as darkness falls. We recommend the experience through several days: perhaps a picnic of artisan cheeses and locally produced wines one evening or a pre theatre dinner at Boulder’s acclaimed dining spot, Jax Fish House (as much an artistic expression with culinary overtones as the Shakespeare production just up the hill). Truth be told, we have often added an extra night onto our itinerary specifically to have a second or third Jax experience. New Zealand Tempura Crusted Blue Nose with Coconut Rice Cake and Green Curry entice every taste bud while the Wasabi Pea Crusted Ono with Ginger Sticky Rice, Seaweed Salad and Blood Orange Beurre Blance is a mile high of flavor.
Jax’s is a loud happening place, so if a quiet fine dining experience is more your fashion, you must experience the dining room at “Q’s†at the Historic Boulderado Hotel. Impassioned with a clear vision of food and wine as perfect partners, Q’s offers monthly wine dinners. Vacation dates should reflect timing to attend one of these special events. How does Roasted Winter Squash Soup graced with Pickled Chanterelles, Spiced Crème Fraiche, Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras with Poached Pear, Walnut Vinaigrette and Pomegranate Reduction sound as a culinary introduction? Inspired by the cool summer evenings (or even the hearty snow flaked wintertime) of the foothills, Grilled Colorado Lamb Chop and Braised Lamb Shoulder with Fregola Cherve and Mint Jus represent the chef’s true level of experience with local cuisine. The Hotel Boulderado also presents a casual, comfortable alternative with its classically decorated corner bar, called The Corner Bar. With deliciously, unique local fare such as Grilled Buffalo Reuben, and Steamed Mussels with Red Pepper Romesco, encourages more than an adequate alternative. Perhaps plan on staying at this historic site and just climb the cantilevered cherrywood staircase to an antique inspired guest room.
After an extreme power walk following the Boulder Path (a 16 mile stretch of parks and wooded paths), stop by Tom’s Tavern, the local watering hole, for undeniably delectable Cheeseburgers and Cold Beers. Then maybe head to Celestial Tea Company for a fun tour. Finish your evening with a relaxed Mediterranean inspired meal on the newly renovated outdoor patio of The Med. And, here’s secret: order the Steak Sinatra (Ole’ Blue Eyes taught the Med’s original chef his special version), Artichokes, Cubanellos, Pepperoncini and Red Peppers sautéed with s splash of Wine and smothered around a perfectly grilled Steak. The Med has much pride in this secret dish, equally as much as their award winning Wild Boar Buffalo Raviolis with Tomato Ragu Reduction. Fly into Denver airport,( quiet a hall from downtown) book a night in the city and enjoy Denver’s Jax restaurant (no better fried oysters on earth) and the beat of a few local jazz clubs before heading to the foothills of a memorable vacation.
Fish House: 928 Pearl Street
Colorado Shakespeare Festival: Univ. of Colorado Campus
Hotel Boulderado, Corner Bar and Q’s Restaurant: 2115 13th St.
The Med: 1002 Walnut St.
Tom’s Tavern: 1047 Pearl St.
Celestial Seasoning tea company: 4600 Sleepytime Drive
As the holidays approach, I often look for culinary travel suggestions to wonderful cool weather spots, where families can gather to share the fine tastes of great food and wine. This year my selection is clearly the wine country of Oregon. Having spent some time there this summer (at a whopping 100 degrees), I can attest that planning a Thanksgiving or seasonal holiday vacation (early November through January) will more than please the palate with great oysters, baked apple pies, and, of course, pinot noir.
Portland, Oregon, one of my favorite U.S. cities, should be your destination point to begin the adventure. Plan to spend at least 2-3 nights, as the restaurant scene is phenomenal in both taste and creativity, with emphasis on local, sustainable produce.  The Wildwood Restaurant,(www.wildwoodrestaurant.com) the brainchild of native Oregonian Cory Schreiber, is the consummate representation of farm fresh cooking. An upscale casual restaurant in a trendy Portland neighborhood, their cookbook, Wildwood, is a necessary buy for the holiday season. Loaded with recipes that explore seasonal cooking, the cookbook in itself is somewhat of a tribute to James Beard, Father of American Cuisine. In fact, Beard grew up in his Mother’s hotel, spending his childhood summers crabbing and picking berries in the coastal town of Gearhart, Oregon. (Beard’s book Delights & Prejudices explores the gastronomic riches of the Pacific Northwest (and the region has led a path for a new generation of great chefs). Café lined streets surround Portland, Oregon, making dining choices often a little overwhelming. One suggestion is clearly to look for local restaurants that feature local, Oregon wines. To immerse oneself in the culinary traditions is the spirit of culinary travel. Once again, Wildwood’s wine list is creative and flows with the essence of their basis. Use local products.
The Willamette Valley, with its undeniable snow capped peaks and hills of vineyards and produce farms, is only a short drive outside of Portland. With small towns and that under-populated feel (just like Sonoma and Napa Valley used to be), the area is not only pristine in its picturesque settings, but boasts some of the finest pinot noirs in the country. Known for its rainy weather (in fact, one winemaker on our trip reminded us that when you move to Oregon you must become “one with the rainâ€), the climate produces incredible clusters of grapes producing not only the famed pinot noir, but also wonderful pinot gris (the American version of Pinot Grigio), as well as some very good up and coming Zinfandels. A visionary in the wine producing region, Domaine Drouhin boasts over 90 acres of high-density vineyards, producing distinctive Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. (www.domaindrouhin.com) Make sure that you include a trip out to the Carlton Winemaker’s Studio in Carlton, Oregon,(www.winemakersstudio.com) about a 25 minute car ride from Dundee. The Carlton Winemaker’s studio is the brainchild of Eric Hamacher, a winemaker borrowing space to produce small vintages. A co-op of sorts, the Carlton Studio now provides state of the art equipment for independent small producers, claiming such wonderful producers as Lynn Penner Ash, formerly of Rex Hill and Andrew Rich, formerly of Bonne Dune. A tour and tasting is liable to produce a few of the winemakers themselves, engaging in interactive tastings with some private reserve wines.
While the Willamette Valley may best be known for its wines, the restaurant scene is absolutely worth the trip in itself. Clearly the best finds were Bistro Maison, (www.bistromaison.com) in McMinnville and The Painted Lady, (www.thepaintedladyrestaurant.com) in Newburg. Unique in their settings and atmosphere and both distinctive in their use of local ingredients, each restaurant sets a standard of fine cuisine, of course, paired with local wines. Bistro Maison is a classic French bistro with an Oregonian attitude. Make sure you dine outside, if the weather so permits, amid beautiful trees and small white lights. Enjoy white truffle cheese fondue with roasted beets, bouillabaisse fruits de mer, and, roasted duck breast with apricot- pinot glaze. The Painted Lady is reminiscent of the charm of an old Inn. Small dining rooms and a lovely front porch allow guests to experience some of Oregon’s finest cuisine in a private home feel. Save room for the Cherve Cheescake - with local poached peaches or pears – but, do not miss the rich crab bisque with chilled crab avocado salad. Presentation alone wins the lottery for best dish!
The Oregon wine country is still a bit rustic with its accommodations. The look is an older, unrefined appearance. Bed and Breakfasts, such as the Mattey House, make up for lack of sophisticated style with charm, personal care, and, terrific scones.
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Gallagher’s Travel Tips for the Willamette Valley:
www.willamettewines.com is a great source for maps and vineyard guides
The winds blow with the rains and although the wine tastings are sure to warm you to the bones, dress in layers.
Travel to all your wine tastings with a small wine journal. You can reference your tasting notes when you return and point out specific labels that you would like your local wine store to carry
Most wineries do charge a minimal fee for tastings. If you are truly a food and wine fan, the small charge is well worth the quality and will help guide you to purchase the wines that best fit your own palate.
Chef’s Choices:
J.K. Carrier makes only handcrafted pinot noirs that hold its own on the world stage
www.jkcarriere.com
Red Ridge Farms in Dayton is a little nursery gem growing wonderful herbs and specialty plants with a creative space above the store for overnights. Make sure that you pick up a few bottles of their olive oil as they are using some of their land to produce olive groves.
www.redridgefarms.com
Bistro Maison created the wonderful idea of serving an Oregon white truffle fondue on Valentine’s Day. Every December and January lots of white truffles are gotten from local foragers. Since we are closed for vacation the month of January, Chef Jean-Jacques immediately cleans them upon receiving them and makes a compound butter of white truffles. He then refrigerates this compound butter which allows the intense unique flavor, if this exotic mushroom to remain dormant until he is ready to use them again. When he allows the white truffle butter to come up to room temperature, the smell and flavor of the white truffles are as strong as when he first received them.
White Truffle Cheese Fondue
Serves 4
Ingredients
Cheese Fondue set with ceramic pot, 4 fondue forks, stand, burner and safety fuel.
1 teaspoon Ground Nutmeg
1/4 cup Oregon Dry White Wine
1 cup Grated Gruyere cheese
1 cup Grated Emmental cheese
1 cup Oregon’s White Tillamook Cheddar Cheese
1 tablespoon Oregon’s Clear Creek Kirshwasser
2 tablespoons Oregon’s White Truffle Butter
1 tablespoon White Truffle Oil
Accompaniments: all should be cut in 3/4″ cubes
Fresh pear and apples
cubes of ham
Roasted red beets, carrots
cornichons
cherry tomatoes
crusty bread (2-day old preferred. Keep refrigerated until ready to serve)
Method
- Pour in wine and ground nutmeg in Fondue pot over heat.
- Keep heat on low until bubbling.
- Reduce the heat to low, and gradually stir in grated cheeses.
- Continue to heat until cheeses melt, stirring constantly.
- When you add the cheese, stir in a zig zag rather than circular motion to help break up the cheese.
Note: Keep the fondue warm over as low heat as possible to avoid scorching the cheese.
- Once cheese is melted stir Oregon’s Clear Creek Kirshwasser into cheese mixture.
- Continue to cook for 2-3 minutes until mixture is thick and smooth, stirring frequently.
- Do not allow fondue to boil.
- Add white truffle butter and stir until dissolves into cheese mixture.
- Remove from heat and drizzle in white truffle oil while stirring mixture.
- Transfer directly to a lit fondue set to prevent cheese from separating.
Serve with the accompaniments.
From the Wildwood Cookbook:
When I moved from Boston to Sarasota, the first thing I did was lighten the load. Away were the four food processors (left over from my own restaurant days), two dozen sauté pans, and, multiple boxes of wine glasses, decanters and, oh yes, stockpiles of old Gourmet Magazines and various cookbooks. At the time it seemed powerful to proclaim that my lugging of cookbooks from house to house days was over. I knew all that there was to know and I looked forward to wrapping my arms around some new, trendy cookbooks. Little did I know: the stained pages of the Joy of Cooking and the fallen, ripped pages of the Silver Palate Cookbook were big losses. I never should have left them behind in the recycling bins.
There were so many non descript cookbooks. The Sisterhood cookbooks from Temple Beth Shalom were a perfect example of the loss. Never would I venture to try someone else’s matzah ball recipe or, God forbid, a non family member method for noodle kuegel. It was the names and memories of the women who contributed the recipes that stood out and that I miss. Myra Scott’s prune Danish was a staple when they certain holidays came, page 36, I believe, in the 1972 edition. McCall’s Cookbook sent me on baking sprees in the late 60’s and early 70’s — pages matted with oatmeal and brown sugar to mark the favorite spots. There was some ‘cookie cookbook’ — I remember it as a paperback that housed the world’s best recipe for sour cream cookies, sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar. Oh, the Betty Crocker Step by Step Cookbook was a classic for my Mom, who did not learn to cook until she was married. Many a night, I recall, the Chinese pepper steak page adorning the counter. My Mom, a literal cook, read each ingredient with effort and care, measuring carefully, while years later I used the recipe as a source for a grocery run, but held the book close to my heart many nights when my Mom fell ill several years back.
Since I recently remodeled my office, I now can enjoy the comfort of having all my cookbooks gracing the shelves of built in bookcases. There may be weeks that go by that I do not reach over and open one, but I have begun new memories with the hundred or so that I have collected since relocating. If I had been an athlete, it would be my trophy case. While I may have forfeited all those older cookbooks, I do still embrace all the recipe cards from my mother’s collection. These are invaluable, the handwritten recipes and cooking tips stir up memories of my childhood and bring comfort knowing that some day my son will be the keeper of these treasures. While he is beginning his culinary career with the newest books from Mario, Giatta and Bobby Flay, I have no doubt that the old recipe card with Grandma’s sweet and sour cabbage rolls will someday be on his own trophy shelf.
This month I take you to the city that never sleeps, and never stops eating for that matter! For over two centuries, New York City has been a giant metropolis of fine cuisine, ethnic delights and culinary adventures. It certainly has not lost its luster  through decades of eating trends, low carb diets and fusion emersions. In fact, New York  lives up to the name even more so with respect to old school new world cuisine, past meets present and no better was this apparent than during my recent jaunt to the little island of Manhattan.
A simple flight from Southwest Florida, exploring New York City for long weekend with its wealth of culinary excursions is simply a must! It is the exploration of some unique institutions that lead me on this tasteful journey, that of the James Beard House and Sarasota’s own Chef Christopher Covelli’s incredible dinner featuring the wines of Maureen Lolonis,  The French Culinary Institute, The infamous 21 Club and the outstanding, incomparable service of the Pierre Hotel.
Arriving in Manhattan on St. Patrick’s Day made this the perfect opening to a weekend experience not to be forgotten. After all, whatever you may have heard contrary , New York City has heart and when you arrive amidst the largest St. Patrick’s Day parade in the country, you are enveloped into a sense of family, albeit, green cloaked and all!
The Pierre Hotel is a central spot to watch the Parade, but it is clearly the magic from the moment that you enter inside this 5th Avenue palace that sets the bar for a perfect weekend retreat. Overlooking Central Park, the Pierre offers visitors the chance to be centrally located to some of the finest restaurants (although the hotel’s own restaurant is internationally  recognized for its fine cuisine), magnificent shopping and proximity to the Museum of Modern Art (newly renovated, a must for your weekend tour). Although New York is certainly “the city that never sleepsâ€, the PierreHotel offers the distinctive traveler a chance for relaxation with oversized rooms, (a weekend suite is highly recommended) and wonderful attentive room service. With that in mind, allow time for an in room massage or  relax and indulge at their Sunday brunch before finishing your delightful stay.
What better way to begin this weekend tour of fine New York cuisine then  by first catching the subway downtown to Restaurant L’Ecole of The French Culinary Institute for lunch . Located at 462 Broadway, The French Culinary Institute offers an exquisite three-course prix fixed lunch for $20.05 and prix fixed five-course dinner at $31.50 per person, clearly a gastronomic bargain for New York City! The cuisine represents the style of the school itself and its master deans; Chef Jacques Pepin`, Chef Andre Soltner, Chef Alain Sailhac and Chef Jacques Torres. To my absolute delight and shear awe, the master chefs were themselves enjoying the fine cuisine of their beloved school. It is no wonder, as we savored the flavors of the Rose-Hued Chicken Consumer with Dumplings Maximin; the incredible tenderness of the Braised Beef in white wine with fingerling potatoes and the buttery flakiness of the Normandy-Style Apple tartlet along with the decadence of the Warm Chocolate Cake with Apricot-Cognac Sauce, Pepin Style. Asked by the honorable Chef Jacques Pepin himself if we were enjoying their fine cuisine, I believe that I managed a simple, “indeed an honor in both presentation and taste you’re royal highness!†Make sure that you prescheduled a tour and make your reservations far enough in advance as The French Culinary Institute is on palate pleasing radar screens..
As Arthur Schwartz, the New York food historian often calls it, The 21 Club, or for those lucky enough to call themselves regulars, the “21†is truly a New York institution. Originally designated as a New York City Speak Easy, the Charmed 21 Club has been tantalizing the taste buds of the stars with their house specialties. Elizabeth Taylor has been known to just fawn over the Creamy Chicken Hash, while clearly the Steak Diane has been an institution with play writes and performers alike. On any given night, you will find the likes of such broadway stars as Liza Minelli enjoying the 21’s extensive menu of past favorites and unique daily preparations. Although tempted to follow the path of the great Hollywood performers, we chose to follow the path of the 21 club’s most recent, innovative chef. The Three Squash Risotto with Seasoned Grilled Shrimp was an impeccable starter course only to be enhanced by the Wild Game Mixed Grill with a perfect accompaniment of huckleberry preserves and the Crisp Black Sea Bass encrusted with sunflower seeds, served with truffled potatoes and Champagne Sauce.The Profiteroles with bittersweet chocolate for dessert,were absolutely magical (Truth be told, I have not had better Profiteroles outside of Leille France before the “21†experience) As much as the cuisine sings to the taste buds, the service compliments both the nostalgia and history as much as the living legend of the building itself. Our captain has been part of the 21 club for over 30 years, along with many of their other seasoned professionals there. If only the walls could talk, the history is everywhere, from the New York priced Cheeseburger to the heavenly manner in which you are attended to.
Although this has been a difficult time as of late for the James Beard Foundation, it must clearly be understood that there is perhaps no greater honor than to be invited to prepare a James Beard dinner in the very home that the Father of American Cuisine once lived. Imagine now, the distinctive honor of a chef receiving the prestigious honor for the fourth time! Chef Christopher Covelli has received such an honor and by demonstrating his unique culinary discipline and outstanding interpretation of cuisine, it is no wonder why he is so adorned in New York City and The Beard House. Experiencing the culinary side of New York is enhanced to a whole level of mystical proportions of the palate when attending a James Beard dinner. One must acquire tickets early and there are hundreds of guest chefs that will be “performing†throughout the year. I recommend logging onto their website: www.jamesbeardfoundation.org.
Guests pass through the action-filled kitchen, (quite small, I might add) in order to get to the reception room, an experience that only the best-seasoned chefs can balance. Can you imagine up to 100 dinner guests filing through your kitchen as you are about to present one of the biggest dinners of your lifetime? Chef Covelli and his staff showed us not only his great manner of warmth and respect for his position at this honorable institution but personally served the housemade Gravlax with White truffle Blini, Crème fraiche and dill and Wild Mushroom in Phyllo while simmering the seafood broth aromatized by Pernod and the golden threads of saffron. It was an evening of  Cabernet-Braised Short Ribs with Potato Galette and Pan-Seared Foie Gras to the liking I have never known so greatly along with some of the finest selections of Lolonis wines. A symphony enhanced by the finale of a fresh Pineapple Tarte Tartin with curry ice cream and  Lolonis Late Harvest Chardonnay,1997 dessert wine.
Although there is so much more: The  $25.00 deli combo sandwich at Carnegie Deli,, the exotic Asian creations at Shun Lee Palace and the overwhelming sensations of Sashimi Salad, Tuna Tatake with Ponzu and Miso Glazed Black Cod at the famed Nobu in Tribecca , The incredible brunch shared with esteemed wine consultant Michael Green, with Pan Seared Foie Gras over brioche bread pudding, Crunchy giant waffles with toffee and fresh fruited yogurt at Norma’s… this article must somehow find it’s finale.
And there it was, enroute to Laguardia, the New York Sabret hot dog and pretzel vendor! Some things just never change!
Somewhere on a lazy, late July afternoon, or perhaps during a mid August barbecue, it happens; deep in the worst part of the summertime heat, it happens. Like clockwork, I know the feeling. Deep inside me, something tells me it is the appropriate time to begin my annual Thanksgiving menu neurosis. Sure, logically, one would think that since my given career is that of professional chef and entertainment specialist, I would automatically have this down to a science. And yes, to some extent, I do. There will be all the usual suspects (aka dear friends) gathered for hours upon hours of eating. And yes, there will be the two fresh Amish turkeys this year, as always.
However, will they be accompanied by a hoisin- glazed pork roast or a grilled porcini dusted sirloin roast? (You see, in our house, red meat is always a side-dish staple when it is not starring as the entrée.) Then there is the worry: should I get two 24 lb. turkeys and a 12 lb. bone-in turkey breast? The more birds equal the more versions of stuffing that will appear on the table, I note in my spinning head. Thus, I’ll need to borrow extra serving bowls. Catch the neurosis? Of course, there is the wonderful side of sausage stuffing that my neighbor Bobbi K. brings every year. But let’s face it, stuffing is a very personal relationship.
My mother made it her way and that is the way I want it. My son prefers a corn bread stuffing. (He must have read too many New England cookbooks in his childhood.) And then there is a ‘no meat’ stuffing prepared out of the bird for our vegetarian friends (more on that later). Yes, I know that the salad course is always baby greens with maytag and dried cranberries, the wine pairings are always left to our friends and the pasta course is certainly narrowed between a classic bolognaise and a pumpkin-sage brown butter ravioli – but I worry none the less.
In some ways, it was a little simpler in the old days. I grew up in a Jewish household, where noodle pudding was the accompanying starch for all poultry dishes. In fact, Nana Pauline even won a weekend in the Catskills for her version of this non-dairy noodle heaven. Then I fell in love with an Irishman from Dorchester, MA, who cleverly imposed a need for mashed potatoes at every meal, and, I mean every meal.
So, we now have the Catskill classic noodle pudding with raisins and cinnamon and red mashed potatoes with pounds of Irish butter and sour cream as well. And, of course, one needs gravy for those “tatoesâ€! Now, there is the traditional turkey gravy, sans the giblets; they belong to our greyhound, Chester. Then, there is the vegetarian gravy for our friends who are non-meat eaters, grilled veggie frittta to accompany their spuds and vegetarian gravy. (My husband looks at this as a blessing from the food-gods–more meat for him) And then, of course, you need some au jus for the sirloin roast or pork roast, don’t you? But, if it is a pork roast, perhaps the rich stock gravy is more appropriate…(Make note to borrow a third gravy boat from our loyal neighbor.) And, more neurosis— Vegetables! There is always the obligatory green bean casserole, made with cannned cream of mushroom soup and canned onion rings (I doubt that they contain any real onions). There is gingered-sweet potato soufflé with candied pecans and mini marshmallows and, grilled asparagus with balsamic reduction, because that is the only vegetable that our friend Gary eats; but wait, the Swikles are in Chicago this year: more worries!
Does that mean we will miss out on Connie Swikle’s now infamous macaroni and cheese? (I must make a mental note to invite the chef from Fleming’s to Thanksgiving so he can ‘just happen’ to bring the mac-n-cheese…!) Last year, my son tried roasted Bartlett pears with fresh tarragon and gorgonzola cheese as a new additional. While exquisite, a bit too rich for this overloaded menu, he’ll have to create a different Gallagher tradition this year. Will it be the creamed onions au gratin or the leek and mushroom tart? Which serving plates do I use?
Desserts you ask…Oh, for this course I started panicking last July!
July 5, 2007
“Off the coast of Northeast Florida is a barrier island known as Amelia Island — a destination of untainted coastal beauty and southern charm, where ocean breezes beckon and wild sand dunes hug the shoreline.†Amidst this natural beauty stands the Ritz- Carlton, a resort whose impeccable five star diamond service, relaxed elegance, and pampering staff are as distinctive as the island itself. Now, pair this ocean front paradise with a weekend of Iron Chef competition, cooking classes, culinary seminars, wine tastings, book signings, and inspirational cuisine (all the while relaxing with the Atlantic just a step away) and you will have the experience of a lifetime!
Welcome to the Amelia Island Ritz Carlton Cooking Classic! This annual event is a MUST  for foodies and gourmands, satisfying both the inner chef and sommelier, while providing for interaction with some of the country’s top chefs. The weekend, traditionally held on the last Friday and Saturday of August each year, creates an environment where Tommy Bahama shirts are the welcome attire for the collection of culinary inspired events. Friday night is a cross between a reality show, with live audience participation, and a professional culinary competition (brought to an even higher level with the expertise of MC Bruce Hamilton of WJXT TV). ON YOUR MARK! GET SET! COOK! is the Iron Chef competition, set in a beautifully custom designed Viking Kitchen, loaded with stocked pantry, flat burner stations, gas burner ranges and giant woks. Guests are seated stadium style for optimum viewing with large screens, a set that even Emeril might envy! Ritz Carlton chefs from around the world, along with other visiting culinary wizards, are set against each other in a friendly contest that models the television’s Iron Chef competition. Audience members are anxious to be selected as “sous chefsâ€, assisting in the duties of chopping, stirring and saucing (all within the confines of 30 minutes). And yes, of course, each year there is the “secret ingredientâ€. This year’s secret ingredient was a bit challenging: salt (most appropriately selected, for that is the name of the new Amelia Island restaurant at the Ritz opening in this fall).
Salt? You might wonder, but do not think so pedestrian. The versions range from Indonesian Pink Salt and Fleur de Sol with Espelette Chili Pepper from Madagascar Island to the depths of the Adriatic Sea with crystallized grey salt. How creative of Cacao Restaurant, Chef Edgar Leal, to create a mini chocolate soufflé with salt garnish. Extreme tastes are the key to success. Too much salt — and you leave too much of a lingering taste, too little — and the judges mark down points for lack of “secret ingredient†value. Alas, an Iron Chef was crowned, this year the honors went to Chef Rainer Zinngrebe from the Ritz Carlton Cancun — creatively preparing a rack of lamb cooked in heated rock salt, wok style, along with his presentation of five tomatoes with five salts. Second by only a fraction, Chef Kenny Gilbert, Executive Chef of the Ritz Carlton, Jupiter wowed us with tuna seviche, with three salt and fresh mission figs with orange segments, olive oil and pink salt; a most unique and memorable dessert (well noted by this food editor to recreate for a future dinner party). The competition is followed yearly by an all out gourmet barbecue — from fresh suckling pig, to lobster cocktail, to braised short ribs in Asian BBQ sauce. There were skewered jumbo diver scallops, grilled with  cinnamon-mango chutney, and, marinated seasoned lamb, with sautéed white nectarines in married with chipotle maple glaze. This barbeque is not for the feign of heart. It is an eating competition unto itself, flavors exploding with creative sauces, smokers ablaze with melt-in-your-mouth brisket, as well as whole wild Alaskan salmon. An abundance of luscious desserts was most impressively displayed amidst the Viking ranges and new age smokers that every ‘chef’ dreams of owning.
Saturday is filled with cooking demos and wine seminars, book signings and mingling. Attendees sign up (at a minimal cost) for whatever interests you. The culmination of this incredible weekend is Saturday night’s Gala: an explosion of style, swanky décor, and, unbelievable decadence. (And yes, Tommy Bahama shirts and sundresses are still the attire.) Phenomenal food stations line not only the outer perimeter of the Grand Ballroom, but, are centered within ceiling suspended glass shelving, filled with mini chocolate Bavarian cream parfaits, freshly baked meringues, filled with chocolate ganache, dark chocolate truffles, beautifully displayed on three foot spun sugar sculptures. All these and more tempt the sweet tooth, while ice sculptures with fresh sushi, cheese displays, martini bars, wine stations and fresh shucked oysters and ahi tuna await the fascinated diner. And, this is in addition to the Vanilla Rubbed Board Tenderloin, Braised Halibut, Cracked Conch Salad, Seared Scallops, Salmon Ceviche, and Florida Frogs Legs, etc.., etc.. that gala-goers can enjoy!
As we danced the night away with Cookng Classic attendees and invited chefs, I could not help but to make a mental note…make reservations tomorrow for next year’s event.
For information about the Amelia Island Ritz Carlton Culinary getaway, contact Farley Kern at (904) 415-1301 — farley.kern@ritzcarlton.com
Chef’s Tips:
- When planning a culinary adventure, find out if there have been any reviews or letters of recommendation.
- Check ahead of time as to the guest chefs, style of the events and timing. You want to select a weekend cooking event that gives you time to relax and enjoy your surroundings as well
- Google the participating chefs and cookbook authors who will be present, in order to help you select specific cooking demonstrations that will peek your interest best.
- Don’t be afraid to mingle with the chefs; the cooking tips shared at the end of an event over a glass of wine are often the most creative, if not the most humorous.
Great Finds:
Check out the town of Fernandina Beach. Lunch at 29 South in the historic district of downtown is a must. Fried green tomatoes with layers of goat cheese melt in your mouth, while the Southern charm of a lobster corn dog would make Paula Dean order two more!
Downtown Jacksonville is less than an hour away from Amelia Island. Plan a few hours checking out Jacksonville’s waterfront; also do some exploring around Amelia Island’s abundant State Parks and natural environs, as well as historical spots.
The golf course at the Ritz Carlton on Amelia Island is a dream . If your mate is not a cooking fanatic- get them a round of golf and they can join you for the delicious barbecue feast and the Saturday night gala.
December 13, 2006
From Chef Donald Brickman of Magnolias, Charleton, SC
Pimiento Cheese Grits, Pepper-Seared Sea Scallops
Red Pepper Sauce
This dish brings together five of my favorite ingredients: pimientos, grits, sharp cheddar cheese, sea scallops, and black pepper. The creamy grits take on the flavors of the pimientos and cheddar cheese and make a great accompaniment for the pepper-seared sea scallops.
Serves 6
The Pimiento Cheese Grits
Makes 6 cups
6 cups water
1 2/3 cups coarse stone-ground white grits
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon butter
1 cup roasted, peeled, seeded, and chopped red bell pepperÂ
8 ounces sharp white cheddar cheese
1/2 tablespoon salt
Dash of white pepper
Bring the water to a boil in a heavy-bottomed stockpot or large saucepan. Slowly pour in the grits, stirring constantly. Reduce the heat to low and continue to stir so that the grits do not settle to the bottom and scorch. After 8 to 10 minutes, the grits will plump up. Cook the grits over low heat for another 25 to 30 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the cream, butter, cheese, and the roasted peppers. Cook an additional 10 minutes to melt the cheese and allow peppers to flavor the grits. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. The grits will have a thick natural creamy consistency, and will have become soft and silky. Keep covered and warm until ready to serve. If the grits become too thick, add warm water to adjust the consistency.
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The Red Pepper Sauce
Makes 1 3/4Â cups
1 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon olive oil
1/4 cup roughly chopped yellow onion
1/2 teaspoon roughly chopped garlic
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 1/4 cups chicken brothÂ
1/2 cup red pepper flesh from 2 large roasted red peppers chopped, or 2 (4-ounce) jars pimientos, drained and chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
Salt to taste
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Heat the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and sauté for 1 minute. Reduce the heat and make a roux by adding the flour and stirring until well combined. Continue to cook over low heat for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Do not let the onions or flour color. Turn up the heat to medium and, stirring vigorously, add 3/4 cups of chicken broth. Continue stirring vigorously until the broth thickens and is smooth. Gradually add the remaining 1/2 cup of chicken broth, the red pepper strips or the pimiento, and the basil, stirring constantly until the broth thickens into a sauce.
Bring the sauce to a low boil, then simmer over medium heat for 10 minutes to cook out the starchy flavor of the flour. Skim off any skin that may come to the top and discard. Remove the sauce from the stove and let it cool, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes. Puree the mixture in a food processor or blender until smooth. Season to taste with salt and cayenne pepper. Use at once or place in a storage container, let cool to room temperature, cover, and refrigerate. Red Pepper Sauce will keep for a week in the refrigerator.
The Scallops
12 large sea scallops
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons fine sea salt
4 tablespoons light olive oil
2 ounces white cheddar cheese, cut in a small dice for garnish
1/2 recipe Red Pepper SauceÂ
Season the sea scallops with the black pepper and salt on the flattest surface of each scallop. Heat the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed frying pan to the smoking point. Gently place the scallops seasoned-side down in the hot oil. Allow them to sear for 1 minute. Carefully lift the scallops so that the oil can get under each one. Continue to sear, adjusting the heat if necessary, until a golden crust or sear is obtained. Gently turn the scallops over and cook them on the other side for 4 to 5 minutes. They should still be a little translucent in the center. Remove them from the heat and allow to rest for a moment.
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From Chef Kevin Rathbun of Rathbun’s Restaurant in Atlanta, GA
Halibut Croquettes
Heirloom Tomatoes and Vidalia Onions
For the Croquettes:
1 lb Halibut Filet
1 cup Chardonnay
1 cup Fish Fume or Chicken Stock
2 Tbsp Shallots (minced)
2 Tbsp Olive Oil
2 tsp Kosher Salt
½ tsp Black Pepper
2 oz Plugra Butter (room temp)
2 oz All Purpose Flour
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For the Vinaigrette:
2 cups Heirloom Tomatoes (medium diced)
1 cup Vidalia Onions (small diced)
1 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
¾ cup Sherry Vinegar
1 Tbsp Lemon Thyme (chopped)
Salt and Black Pepper to taste
Procedure
In a small pot place fish, white wine, stock, shallots, salt and pepper, simmer until fish is just cooked.
In a small bowl mix butter and flour together.
Remove fish from broth and place in a small bowl, flake apart into small pieces
Bring stock mixture to a boil and add flour butter mixture small bits at a time. Whisking
Mixture should be very thick, cook for about 3 minutes or until flour flavor has cooked out. Add flaked fish and adjust seasoning.
Place on a sheet tray and chill.
Form croquettes and bread
Place croquettes in flour transfer to egg mixture and place in bread crumbs, cover and reserve.
Heat canola oil to 340 degrees and fry croquettes until golden brown.
In a small bowl mix tomatoes, onions, thyme, virgin oil, vinegar, salt and pepper
Place chunky vinaigrette on plate and top with hot croquettes.
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For the Breading:
2 cups All Purpose Flour
1 cup Buttermilk
2 large Eggs
2 cups Panco Bread Crumbs
1 tsp Kosher Salt
½ tsp Black Pepper
4 cups Canola Oil (for frying)
December 12, 2006
Gallagher’s Travels
The Ultimate Gourmet Getaway on Amelia Island
“Off the coast of Northeast Florida is a barrier island known as Amelia Island — a destination of untainted coastal beauty and southern charm, where ocean breezes beckon and wild sand dunes hug the shoreline.†Amidst this natural beauty stands the Ritz- Carlton, a resort whose impeccable five star diamond service, relaxed elegance, and pampering staff are as distinctive as the island itself. Now, pair this ocean front paradise with a weekend of Iron Chef competition, cooking classes, culinary seminars, wine tastings, book signings, and inspirational cuisine (all the while relaxing with the Atlantic just a step away) and you will have the experience of a lifetime!
Welcome to the Amelia Island Ritz Carlton Cooking Classic! This annual event is a MUST for foodies and gourmands, satisfying both the inner chef and sommelier, while providing for interaction with some of the country’s top chefs. The weekend, traditionally held on the last Friday and Saturday of August each year, creates an environment where Tommy Bahama shirts are the welcome attire for the collection of culinary inspired events. Friday night is a cross between a reality show, with live audience participation, and a professional culinary competition (brought to an even higher level with the expertise of MC Bruce Hamilton of WJXT TV). ON YOUR MARK! GET SET! COOK! is the Iron Chef competition, set in a beautifully custom designed Viking Kitchen, loaded with stocked pantry, flat burner stations, gas burner ranges and giant woks. Guests are seated stadium style for optimum viewing with large screens, a set that even Emeril might envy! Ritz Carlton chefs from around the world, along with other visiting culinary wizards, are set against each other in a friendly contest that models the television’s Iron Chef competition. Audience members are anxious to be selected as “sous chefsâ€, assisting in the duties of chopping, stirring and saucing (all within the confines of 30 minutes). And yes, of course, each year there is the “secret ingredientâ€. This year’s secret ingredient was a bit challenging: salt (most appropriately selected, for that is the name of the new Amelia Island restaurant at the Ritz opening in this fall).
Salt? You might wonder, but do not think so pedestrian. The versions range from Indonesian Pink Salt and Fleur de Sol with Espelette Chili Pepper from Madagascar Island to the depths of the Adriatic Sea with crystallized grey salt. How creative of Cacao Restaurant, Chef Edgar Leal, to create a mini chocolate soufflé with salt garnish. Extreme tastes are the key to success. Too much salt — and you leave too much of a lingering taste, too little — and the judges mark down points for lack of “secret ingredient†value. Alas, an Iron Chef was crowned, this year the honors went to Chef Rainer Zinngrebe from the Ritz Carlton Cancun — creatively preparing a rack of lamb cooked in heated rock salt, wok style, along with his presentation of five tomatoes with five salts. Second by only a fraction, Chef Kenny Gilbert, Executive Chef of the Ritz Carlton, Jupiter wowed us with tuna seviche, with three salt and fresh mission figs with orange segments, olive oil and pink salt; a most unique and memorable dessert (well noted by this food editor to recreate for a future dinner party). The competition is followed yearly by an all out gourmet barbecue — from fresh suckling pig, to lobster cocktail, to braised short ribs in Asian BBQ sauce. There were skewered jumbo diver scallops, grilled with cinnamon-mango chutney, and, marinated seasoned lamb, with sautéed white nectarines in married with chipotle maple glaze. This barbeque is not for the feign of heart. It is an eating competition unto itself, flavors exploding with creative sauces, smokers ablaze with melt-in-your-mouth brisket, as well as whole wild Alaskan salmon. An abundance of luscious desserts was most impressively displayed amidst the Viking ranges and new age smokers that every ‘chef’ dreams of owning.
Saturday is filled with cooking demos and wine seminars, book signings and mingling. Attendees sign up (at a minimal cost) for whatever interests you. The culmination of this incredible weekend is Saturday night’s Gala: an explosion of style, swanky décor, and, unbelievable decadence. (And yes, Tommy Bahama shirts and sundresses are still the attire.) Phenomenal food stations line not only the outer perimeter of the Grand Ballroom, but, are centered within ceiling suspended glass shelving, filled with mini chocolate Bavarian cream parfaits, freshly baked meringues, filled with chocolate ganache, dark chocolate truffles, beautifully displayed on three foot spun sugar sculptures. All these and more tempt the sweet tooth, while ice sculptures with fresh sushi, cheese displays, martini bars, wine stations and fresh shucked oysters and ahi tuna await the fascinated diner. And, this is in addition to the Vanilla Rubbed Board Tenderloin, Braised Halibut, Cracked Conch Salad, Seared Scallops, Salmon Ceviche, and Florida Frogs Legs, etc.., etc.. that gala-goers can enjoy!
As we danced the night away with Cookng Classic attendees and invited chefs, I could not help but to make a mental note…make reservations tomorrow for next year’s event.
For information about the Amelia Island Ritz Carlton Culinary getaway, contact
Farley Kern at (904) 415-1301 — farley.kern@ritzcarlton.com
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Chef’s Tips:
When planning a culinary adventure, find out if there have been any reviews or letters of recommendation.
Check ahead of time as to the guest chefs, style of the events and timing. You want to select a weekend cooking event that gives you time to relax and enjoy your surroundings as well
Google the participating chefs and cookbook authors who will be present, in order to help you select specific cooking demonstrations that will peek your interest best.
Don’t be afraid to mingle with the chefs; the cooking tips shared at the end of an event over a glass of wine are often the most creative, if not the most humorous.
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Great Finds:
Check out the town of Fernandina Beach. Lunch at 29 South in the historic district of downtown is a must. Fried green tomatoes with layers of goat cheese melt in your mouth, while the Southern charm of a lobster corn dog would make Paula Dean order two more!
Downtown Jacksonville is less than an hour away from Amelia Island. Plan a few hours checking out Jacksonville’s waterfront; also do some exploring around Amelia Island’s abundant State Parks and natural environs, as well as historical spots.
The golf course at the Ritz Carlton on Amelia Island is a dream . If your mate is not a cooking fanatic- get them a round of golf and they can join you for the delicious barbecue feast and the Saturday night gala.
October 22, 2006